Photographing butterflies

written by: Bart Heirweg; article published: year 2007, month 12;


In: Categories » Arts and entertainment » Performing and visual arts » Photographing butterflies

As a nature photographer the day often starts with the question: where do I begin? There are so many photographic opportunities and it is not always easy to choose the right object at the right moment. But among all of nature’s amazing diversity, there is one species you just can’t take bad pictures of, namely butterflies. With the right preparation you’ll easily get one final colourful image, due to these bright creatures and the colourful flowers they feed on. While this seems an ideal subject for nature photography, yet many starting photographers find photographing butterflies quite challenging. These little winged creatures can be very active and in that way don’t keep still long enough to take the right shots. But with the following list of tips and the right amount of patience, you’ll see that photographing butterflies is a very rewarding photographic activity.

Where and when
From April till late August, butterflies can be found almost everywhere. The most common species have adapted to live in urban areas, so you can find them easily by simply walking around in your own garden. You could even attract different species by planting flowers and bushes that attract these little insects. Certain butterflies could also be attracted by putting out rotting fruit.
In the past decades butterflies have declined dramatically due to the loss of their habitats and the plants that a species of butterfly may be reliant on. To find rare and endangered butterflies you might have to drive to specific locations, where only a small population is left. Keep in mind that these populations are very vulnerable, so always try to take your photographs with great respect for nature and environment.

Because butterflies depend on the warmth of the sun, I usually go out, photographing them, in the early mornings and evenings, as they are less active then. It might then be harder to find them, so look carefully for butterflies resting on flowers or grasses.
Don’t hesitate to go out on a clouded day as well; the light is soft then, which allows you to photograph in “good” light the whole day.
Once you have found an obliging individual, approach it carefully without disturbing it and take all the shots you can. It also helps to wear dark clothing because it doesn’t scare butterflies off as easily as light coloured clothing does.

Equipment to use
I could actually write a whole article about the equipment necessary for photographing butterflies, but if you’re just a starting photographer of butterflies, I would recommend you the following material in particular. The best choice would probably be a (digital) SLR combined with a macro lens but if you don’t have that at hand, you could also use your telephoto lens. My first butterfly shots were taken with a Nikon Coolpix 995, so even a digital compact camera can get you started.
Furthermore, I would recommend a macro lens of 100mm or more, because they allow greater working distance. Moreover a longer focal length gives a nice out-of-focus background. I currently use a Canon Eos 40D together with a Sigma 150mm macro and this combination gives me very satisfying results when taking shots of butterflies.
Most of the times I use a tripod as well; you will be working with rather small apertures in order to get the butterfly completely into focus, therefore resulting in low shutter speeds. If you go out early in the morning or on a cloudy day, the available light might be poor and then a tripod really is necessary.
On a cloudy day, a flash unit can be used as a fill-flash to add an extra punch to your image or used as an extra source of light. When photographing in full sun, use a fill-flash to soften the harsh shadows.
For really small objects, extension tubes allow an even closer focusing distance. An extender will allow a greater working distance and a remote cord can avoid blurry images due to camera shake, when photographing at very low shutter speeds.

Things to keep in mind
When photographing in close-up, the depth of field is very small. So in order to have your butterfly completely in focus, you need a small aperture. For butterflies that have their wings closed an aperture of F5.6 will do, but for butterflies that have their wings spread open, you might need an aperture of F10 and higher. If your camera has a depth of field preview button, use it to see how much of your subject is in focus.
You should also pay attention to your background. Try to avoid cluttered backgrounds. By simply changing the position of your tripod a little, you might avoid distracting objects in the background. Images that have a soft out of focus background, isolating the subject, have far more impact on the viewer.
I suggest you use manual focus when doing close-up photography. The narrow depth of field requires an extremely precise focus and having your camera focusing on the wrong part of your subject can completely ruin your shot.
Look for a good composition, generally avoid placing your subject in the middle but use the rule of thirds, your image will have far more impact on its viewers. If your camera has a live preview function, you can also use this to check your composition.
Finally take a few shots and check your histogram for correct exposure.
I find that butterflies lean themselves very well for experimenting with light. Step away from the standard image and take that same shot using backlighting, you might be surprised about the results.

Good luck
As you can read there are a few things to keep in mind. It is often very frustrating when you see a nice butterfly sitting on a colourful flower, you approach it very carefully, put your tripod and camera in position and when you are about to take the first shot it flies off. But if you have enough patience I can assure you that some rewarding images can be taken. Think outside the box and try to add a little more drama to your shots, by trying out different techniques. Don’t hesitate to photograph from different angles, in different light and you’ll soon notice that experimenting with all these elements will improve your pictures. I hope these basic tips can get you started, but don’t forget to be creative yourself.

Bart Heirweg: bartheirweg.com

legal disclaimer

1) Our website is not responsible for the information contained by this article as well for any and all copyright infringements by authors and writers. E-articles is a free information resource. If you suspect this article for any copyright infringements, please read the Terms of service and contact us to investigate the problem.
2) The E-articles directory team is not responsible for inaccuracies, falsehoods, or any other types of misinformation this tutorial may contain and will not be liable for any loss or damage suffered by a user through the user's reliance on the information gained here. Please read the Terms of service

Useful tools and features

Translate this article to...    Send this article to you or to a friend

Link to this article from your page   
If you like this article (tutorial), please link to it from your web page using the information above. Linking to this page, this is the only way to help us improve our service, the same time providing your visitors with a way to improve their online experience.

related articles

1. The Basic Rules To Create Powerful Landscape Images
You could spend your entire lifetime studying how to make great landscape images. There are, however, a few key techniques that will improve your nature shots right away while you learn the subtleties of the craft. Keep these few in the back of your mind while shooting. Work with "magic light." Landscape pictures shot before 9:00 a.m. and after 5:00 p.m. look better, especially with digital cameras that have a hard time taming harsh midday sun. Keep your compositions simple. Clutter is the bane of po...

2. How To Capture Existing Light Portraits
By now you've probably realized one of the great ironies in good portrait photography: the flash is your friend when working outdoors. So guess what the great secret is for indoor portraiture? That's right; sometimes it's better to turn off the flash. Some of the most artistic portraits use nothing more than an open window and a simple reflector. The problem with using your on-camera flash indoors is that the light is harsh and creates an image filled with contrast. "Harsh" and "high contrast" are two words models don't l...

3. How To Capture Action Shots
Following these suggestions will improve the quality of your action shots: First, set your camera at its highest resolution. You will probably want to crop your image later to bring the action closer. Having extra pixels actually extends the reach of your lens, which is very helpful for this type of photography. The key to "stopping action" is to use a fast shutter-speed setting. Typically, you should use a speed of at least 1/250th, 1/500th, or 1/1000th of a second. The programmed autoexposure ...

4. How Do I Shoot Infrared Images
Infrared photography has been around for a long time, but capturing these stunning pictures on film required true perseverance. Digital imaging has changed all of that. Shooting infrared photos has never been easier or more fun. When you shoot infrared, you're actually dealing with a spectrum of light that's outside our normal range of perception. But with the assistance of a special filter, such as an IR 87 or Hoya R72, many digital cameras can produce the telltale dramatic effects, including a darkened sky, vivid clouds, and ...

5. Professional Cameras
Digital SLRs provide tremendous flexibility for photographers who need to tackle a wide variety of photo assignments. The key feature is the removable lens. Major camera manufacturers such as Nikon and Canon provide you with dozens of lens choices for your DSLR. Sports and nature photographers may lean toward powerful zooms that bring the action in close. Special event shooters will want a high-quality wide-angle lens for working in tight quarters. Portrait photographers need moderate telephotos with wide apertures so they can s...

6. Advanced Amateur Cameras
Today's advanced amateur digital cameras are reminiscent of film rangefinder classics such as the Leica M6. Whether classic or modern, these cameras appeal to serious photographers who want to pack as much quality and control as possible into a camera that hangs lightly around the neck. Advanced amateur cameras feature high-quality zoom lenses, 6-megapixel or higher image sensors, and an array of controls that will help you meet just about any photographic challenge. You can usually build an entire outfit, including flash and ...

7. Hybrid Devices
There are three exciting areas where digital imaging is converging with other functionality: phones with cameras built into them, digital camcorders with still picture capability, and still cameras that can record high-quality video. Cameraphones The most notable of the hybrid devices is the cameraphone. Manufacturers of these devices have already figured out how to add megapixel resolution, digital zoom lenses, and even electronic flashes to the devices that you've been using to make phone calls. Mobile phones have ...

8. How To Prevent Red Eye Effect
Your subjects are vulnerable to red eye in dimly lit rooms when their pupils are open wide. The effect is actually caused by the light from the flash bouncing off the retina and being reflected back into the picture-taking lens. Point-and-shoot cameras are notorious for causing red eye, because the flash is so close to the lens; this makes for a perfect alignment to catch the reflection from the retina. Even though many cameras provide a setting to reduce red eye, they don't always work well and actually can be irritating...

9. How Do I Take Passport Photos and Self Portraits
Some people may think that turning the camera toward yourself is the height of narcissism, but sometimes you need a shot and no one is around to take it for you. Headshots for passport photos and résumés are typical scenarios for the emergency self-portrait. Start with the basics: make sure your hair is combed, your collar is down, your shirt is clean, and your teeth are free of spinach (and lipstick!). Then find a location with a pleasing, uncluttered background. Put the camera on a tripod, and set it to fo...

10. How To Take Pictures from the Stands at Sporting Events
Speaking of the flash, how many times have you seen hundreds of cameras firing off from the stands during a sporting event in a large stadium? Alas, what a waste of film, battery power, and space on memory cards. The flash range of most point-and-shoot cameras is about 10 feet. That means that if you're shooting from the stands, you're illuminating a couple of rows of seats in front of you, and that's about it. Instead, turn off your flash and use existing-light techniques. If you can adjust your camera's ISO setting bump ...